You should begin feeding the following diet once you get your pup home. Aside from the probiotic, supplements can be given 6 days a week to give your dog’s body time to clear out any excess vitamins on the seventh day.
- 16 oz raw or cooked diet (ideal) or 2 cups super-premium ADULT freeze-dried, 96 % protein canned or limited ingredient kibble diet, divided over three meals per day (3 meals/day until 6 months of age)
15mg DHA per body pound per day
1 scoop Geneflora or other probiotic, per day
1 scoop Mercola Pet
Be sure to warm the raw food to at least room temperature and preferably 100°F for the first week or so. That will make it more palatable and will bring out the odors of the food to encourage your pup to eat.
The first week your pup is home with you, he/she may not eat very well. Do not worry if she skips a few meals. If that happens:
1) Reduce the amount you are feeding,
2) warm the food or even give it a quick sauté,
3) feed your pup in her crate so she will not be distracted by activities around her.
4) give the pup only 10 minutes to eat. If she does not finish it, put the food in the refrigerator and try again next meal time.
5) Do not leave food down. Do not beg your puppy to eat. Do not hand feed. Do not add goodies to it after you have put it down. Do not try giving the food in an hour or so. All of these behaviors will encourage your pup to become picky about her food. He is at a good weight now so missing a few meals will not hurt her.
The concept of the ancestral diet for dogs stems from the fact that dogs have evolved successfully through hunting and scavenging – consuming foods that were high in protein and low in carbohydrates and not at all like the kibble so many are fed today. Recent nutritional science increasingly supports an ancestral diet—high protein, balanced fats, and at least some fresh foods—as the healthiest approach to feeding most dogs. There is no way of knowing for sure exactly what constituted the diet of the ancestors of the modern, domesticated, dog, but we can estimate that it consisted of about 85 to 90% meat (primarily from whole prey) along with small amounts of fish, eggs, scavenged grasses, berries, nuts and other vegetation.This low carb high protein diet has almost 50% of the calories coming from protein, 44% from fat, and only 6% from carbohydrate. This protein level exceeds all but a few dry on the market.
Heavily-processed foods share these shortcomings:
According to the National Research Council and compared to the other two major nutrients — protein and fat — no carbs are considered essential for a healthy canine diet.1 Dogs don’t need corn. And they don’t need wheat, barley rice or potatoes, either.
Proven benefits from EPA and DHA include: -Improving the coat and skin. -Reducing inflammation due to conditions such as arthritis, allergies, and inflammatory bowel disease. -Regulating the immune system, boosting those that are suppressed and calming overactive immune systems for dogs with allergies or autoimmune diseases. -Aiding in mental development of fetuses and puppies, and improving cognitive function in older dogs. -Lowering blood pressure and triglycerides. -Providing support for dogs with kidney disease, heart disease, and cancer. -Promoting weight loss in overweight dogs.
Remember that “the best diet” is an individual matter. Your friend’s strategy for feeding her Golden Retriever won’t necessarily be the best for your Golden. Read labels, understand what you’re feeding, research the manufacturer if feeding a commercial product, and feed the highest quality food that your budget can handle. Like everything we do with our dogs, pay attention to what your dog’s telling you, and after you pick up the food bowl each day, let your dog and his health determine what’s best for him.
Your pup’s present weight is annotated on his health certificate. He is going to grow by leaps and bounds over the next year. You should seek to keep his growth slow while ensuring he does not become too thin.
The Purina Body Conditioning System chart, to the left, gives you a way to ensure your pup maintains an appropriate weight throughout his life. You want to be able to distinctly feel your pup’s and adult dog’s ribs while not easily feeling either hip bones or spine. Remember, thin is good since recent research indicates that dogs kept slightly underweight live a year and a half longer than those kept at what previously had been considered a “normal” weight.
Weight is not the sole determinant of condition. You also want to regularly check your dog’s muscle tone and size, ensuring you are providing enough of the right kinds of exercise to keep your dog in hard working condition. Despite many owners’ beliefs, dogs should not put on weight or lose condition just because it is winter or hot out. There are many conditioning exercises you can do in your living room that will help keep your dog healthy and sound for a lifetime.
Start slowly to condition your pup, especially while he is growing. Your pup has walked up to 45 minutes in the yard with us, albeit at his own pace. We meander while the pups (and dogs) run hither and yon. Until your pup is 15 months old, the majority of his exercise should be free running at his own pace, if at all possible. Repetitive exercise, such as jogging or biking on leash, early in their lives can cause orthopedic problems in young dogs. Leash walks are fine but rarely provide adequate exercise for healthy golden retrievers.
You will be provided with the booklet, "Puppy Fitness that Fits the Puppy" when picking up your new canine companion.
Dr Schultz’s protocol balances a pup’s need for immunity from potentially fatal diseases with detrimental effects on their immune systems caused by unnecessary vaccinations. It also seeks to time vaccines so we create a good, robust reaction that imprints the dog’s immune system with an appropriate response, setting it up for lifetime protection
We ran a distemper-parvo titer nomograph on your puppy’s mother in order to determine when we should vaccinate against these diseases. We have given your pup’s first distemper-parvovirus vaccine based on the nomograph results and have developed a schedule for the remaining boosters in your puppy’s Medical Schedule.
The antibodies in mom’s milk have protected your puppy thus far. This passive immunity declines steadily during the pups’ first 16 weeks of life. At some point, they fall low enough for the puppies to respond to a vaccine. Once the puppies’ maternal antibodies fall below 20, they cannot protect them from distemper or parvovirus. However, as long as they are above 10 they are too high for a vaccine from triggering the pup’s own immune system.
Your pup’s mom’s titers allow us to determine your pup’s Danger Period, when he is most likely to have maternal levels between 10 and 20 and thus is most at risk of getting parvo and distemper. This Danger Period is listed on the Medical Schedule. Once the Danger Period begins, your pup’s maternal antibodies are too low to protect him but are too high to allow him to respond to a vaccine. During this period ensure your pup goes only to places where there are and have been no unvaccinated dogs. Do not take your puppy to dog parks, pet stores, or other places that dogs run loose. Be cautious taking your pup to the veterinarian’s office (without calling to ensure they have seen no cases of parvovirus or distemper) and dog shows, etc.
You can take your puppy to puppy class, IF your trainer requires all pups be vaccinated against these diseases. Instead, take your puppy to garden centers, Lowe’s and Home Depot, your bank, nursing homes or even schools, if allowed. These places offer great socialization and developmental experiences for dogs without the risk that other dogs may present.
Three weeks after the first vaccination was given by us, you will want to have your puppy receive its 2nd DAPP vaccination. There should be no other vaccines in this combination product so do not give vaccines that include leptospirosis, coronavirus or any other component. Please be very clear with your vet and any technicians that are preparing your puppy’s vaccination. Check the vial before the vaccine is given to ensure you puppy is getting the correct vaccine. *Depending on the nomograph, some litters may require a third vaccination before titering.
It takes 3 to 7 days for your puppy’s body to respond to the vaccine and develop a protective immune response, so continue to be cautious until a week after his second vaccination.
Two weeks after the DAPP vaccine, have your vet titer your puppy for parvo and distemper. Ask your vet to draw a blood sample for this titer and send it to the University of Wisconsin Vet. Diagnostic Lab. You may print the serum submission form from the link below. We believe the University of Wisconsin Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory’s titering programs is the best available. The cost is $40.00
If your puppy has distemper and Parvo titers greater than 300, then it has had an appropriate immune response to the distemper-parvo vaccine and you do not need to do any further puppy distemper-parvo vaccines. You can also titer for adenovirus, too, although we do not with our dogs. Most pups have a quick reaction to the adeno vaccine so you can be confident that the vaccine you gave was affective and not titer for it.
From this point on, you are responsible for making the final decision about your dog’s vaccinations after you have read this and consulted with your veterinarian. Vaccines are some of the most powerful drugs ever created. As such, they can both save your dog’s life and cause very serious, sometimes fatal complications. They should not be used casually or passively. Please make sure you discuss this with your veterinarian during your first visit and ensure you are in control each and every time your pup receives a vaccination during its lifetime.
You should always titer before vaccinating your dog for distemper and parvovirus for the rest of its life. If the titer is POSTIVE, regardless of how low the number, your dog is protected and does not need further vaccines. Once immunity has been conferred and the dog’s body has adapted to it, the level of immunity is a characteristic of the individual dog NOT the number of vaccines it has received. Giving a booster shot will increase the antibody titer in the short term but the titer will eventually return to the previous level. Even dogs with very low, but positive, titers have memory cells that will enable their immune system to fight off a parvo or distemper infection. Additionally, parvovirus is a disease of puppyhood; after a year, very few dogs will develop parvo even if they come in contact with the virus. The same cannot be said for distemper, which requires lifetime protection but that can be conferred through puppy vaccines.
A soft harness like Puppia. For 8 week olds, neck circumferences average 11 inches and chest girths average 17 inches.
We find puppies are more comfortable in wire crates because they allow for more circulation of air (even when a sheet is draped over 3 sides for privacy) than plastic crates.
We use these BestPet Play Yards as kennels in our home. To keep them from moving, we place heavy garden tiles in strategic places (both inside and out) to reinforce the pen.
We only use stainless steel buckets and bowls for hygiene and to reduce the risk toxins and/or reactions to plastics and other man-made materials.
**Notice this bowl can be used to slow puppies down when eating their meals.
One of the easiest tools to use for all over body grooming. This comb, used gently backwards first, and then forward, will easily remove undercoat and take out tangles found in armpits and on belly. Great to use on the tail.
By using a variable speed Dremmel, it is possible to use a lower speed and be able to remove nail growth with less reaction from the puppy.
When using a treat dispenser, remember to count what has been eaten as part of the puppy's daily caloric intake. Thin puppies grow up to have less structural damage from being overweight. Ex. Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Never edible bones. They always have chemicals and food sources that upset the puppy's gastrointestinal tract. Diarrhea!
A great way to stimulate your puppy's mind by making him/her problem-solve to get to the hidden treat.
We like to think of Kongs as pacifiers. Our dogs love to chew on them when they are stuffed with dried lamb lung. All natural and a fun chew. We occupy our dogs with these when company arrives and when we are stepping out for an errand or dinner.
Limit to a 5-10 minute supervised chew after a meal. These can cause gastrointestinal upset if too much is consumed. Also, some dogs do not tolerate beef.
Caution! A ball should be large enough so as not to fit fully in the mouth. Many a dog has had a ball caught in the back of the throat.
Human use tennis balls abrade canine teeth and should not be given.
We use Ziwi Peak as a daily training treat and always have a handful in our pockets.
Always prepared to reinforce good behavior! It can also be used in puzzles and food dispensers.
Liver is a high value treat. We use it for special reinforcement on such behaviors as coming when called and going to bed in the crate.
We stuff Kongs with dried lamb lungs and the dogs love the challenge.
Your pup had a negative stool sample when evaluated by our veterinarian. However, a negative fecal is not always accurate so you should take another stool sample in to your vet on your first or second visit. From then on your pup will require worming when you see evidence of worms in his feces or symptoms such as dry coat, weight loss, or actual worms in his stool.
Visible worms can look like real worms or small grains of rice. The latter are tapeworm segments which rarely show up on a stool test so tell your vet if you see them so you can get your pup treated. Tape worms often arise from flea infestations so if you dog has fleas, he is more likely to need to be wormed for tape worms.
Heartworms are a worm-like parasite transmitted by mosquito bites. They can grow in dogs’ hearts and cause serious, even fatal, heart disease. However, mosquitoes need days when the temperature reaches 57°F for multiple days to reproduce and mature. The more days there are above that cut off, the higher the risk of heartworm infection, the fewer there are, the lower the risk. So except in southern Florida, there is little reason to treat dogs for heartworm year round most years and doing so is subjecting them to unnecessary pesticides.
Coccidiosis is a parasite infestation that erupts when young animals are under stress. For puppies, this is usually weaning and during the transition to their new home. You will know your pup has coccidia if it has diarrhea, and more rarely, vomiting. The diarrhea can come and go or it can be constant. If your pup has diarrhea for a day, make an appointment with your vet. The treatment for coccidia is usually ten days of Albon (sulfadimethoxine), which usually clears up the problem with one or two series. Albon is a sulfa antibiotic but it has been tolerated well by our dogs in the past. Give the Albon with food because it has a very bad taste. Healthy adult dogs are usually resistant to the coccidia protozoa so your pup will be fine once he is mature.
Flea control methods that are effective are regular bathing with a normal dog shampoo, the use of an herbal children's insect repellent applied to your hands and then wiped on your dog, and regular vacuuming. We no longer recommend flea shampoos and powders or insecticide sprays for your home because of their possible threat to your dog’s immune system.
Many dog owners are unaware that dogs undergo fear periods during developmental stages. During distinct fear periods, dogs may gradually become more fearful of already familiar situations. Fear may be manifested by overly cautious behaviors (puppy or dog approaches people or items tentatively) or defensive behaviors (barking/lunging/growling.) Let's take a look at these fear periods and see how they affect man's best friend. Read more at: https://pethelpful.com/dogs/Dog-Behavior-Understanding-Fear-Periods-in-Dogs
Regardless whether you have purchased a pet puppy or a performance puppy we recommend that you wait to have your pup neutered until at least two years of age. This requires that you take full responsibility for your pup once it becomes sexually mature and before it is neutered to ensure no pregnancies occur. Sexual maturity occurs around 6-10 months for males and at their first heat cycle, usually 10-12 months, for females.
Effects of Spaying and Neutering Sex hormones are important for a variety of physiological processes unrelated to procreation, such as bone density, growth plate closure, influencing other essential hormones, and secondary sex characteristics. Spayed/neutered dogs may have higher incidents of cancer, canine hip dysplasia and cruciate ligament ruptures. Research has shown that spayed/neutered dogs also show increased rates of compulsive sexual behaviors (such as humping), sound phobias (such as thunderstorm phobia), other fearful behaviors and, surprisingly, male aggression.
Allowing a female puppy to have one or two heat cycles does slightly increase the risk of mammary cancer. This risk increases with each heat but within in the first two years, the increased risk is very slight. The canine version of mammary cancer offers a good prognosis when caught early. Spaying before their first heat reduces this risk by 95%. But spaying between 12 and 24 months also reduces the risk of this cancer significantly. However, the risk is still low and mammary cancer caught early by vigilant owners is quite treatable.
There is also very strong evidence of other detrimental impacts of spaying and neutering. This survey found that dogs spayed early had significantly increased rates of: Hypothyroidism (increased 60% in bitches neutered young and 80% in dogs!), weight problems (both) and lifelong incontinence and chronic UTIs (bitches).
These are very real issues with dogs spayed young but the risks of these are greatly diminished by letting a bitch have at least one season and a dog complete puberty.
In addition, dogs spayed/neutered after they are adults grow more appropriately--dogs neutered or spayed early grow up to an inch more than those that are allowed to develop fully before neutering. Early-neutered dogs often look leggy and gawky, trapped in an adolescent body for their entire lives. This is also important because height is related to longevity; taller animals die earlier than shorter ones.
There is evidence that intact males are more likely to develop prostatitis. Acute prostatitis can happen in a young male and is treatable with antibiotics. Chronic prostatitis rarely occurs in young dogs and neutered dogs. So, neutering at 24 months can reduce the likelihood of this problem arising. You do need to be aware that a few studies indicate that neutering may increase the likelihood of prostate cancer but, again, this is a very rare cancer in goldens.
So by spaying/neutering after 24 months, your puppy will have decreased risk of osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, lymphosarcoma, and lifelong chronic health problems such as hypothyroidism, weight gain, incontinence and chronic UTIs. He or she will not be as tall which also significantly increases his chance of living a longer life. He or she will have almost no chance of ovarian, uterine and testicular cancer. The girls will have a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer.
At the same time, there is a difference between leaving a dog intact and breeding it. Simply because you have not yet neutered it does not mean your dog should be bred. Therefore, it is your responsibility to manage your intact dog carefully.
Bitches should be kept away from intact males during the twenty-one days of their semi-annual season and for a few days afterwards until you know they are not receptive to other dogs. This does not mean that they must remain in the house but you should be sure to take them to places where you know there are no loose, intact males.
Males should be taught a strong recall and good manners around females and males, alike. Like all of our dogs, they should not be allowed to run loose without supervision.